Rome Weekend - Day 3

My reflection in the opposite window of our rather faded Rome Metro train was not a pretty sight. The grey in my hair shone; my face looked thinner although my ugly white body has definitely gained weight and the downturned corners of my mouth gave an impression that I was much less happy than I in fact was. The reality was that I was tired after about six hours of walking on Rome's harsh pavements but I could only reflect ruefully that I have colleagues little younger than me who visit Everest base camp, hike Kilimanjaro and the Grand Canyon and run in marathons. I am the pathetic one with the seized calves and tightening back which I jolted several times today on uneven surfaces.

It was a beautiful day and we were determined to make the most of it. Starting without a plan we walked in the Villa Borghese park and could have stayed forever. Its lake and sculptures are beautiful. Piazzale Flaminio was a great example of how very pleasant Rome is away from the most crowded parts. We travelled to Cipro and I enjoyed walking alongside the walls of the Vatican City. There is something to be gained from this experience without sharing the futile superstitions of the Catholic faith. I was very pleased to he headed in th eopposite direction to the impossibly large queues for the Vatican Museums. We lingered a long while in the sun-bather Piazza del Risorgimento, pleasant in its own right and just beyond the footsteps of the faithful but also as it happens a better place than Termini to photograph buses and trams. I had not seen so much of the city walls before and we made our way to the more familiar open St. Peter's Square and on to Via della Conciliazone. The buildings are undeniably impressive and must convey something more to the committed visitor. To confirm that we were in the XXIst century, large screens relayed to the crowd a (presumably live) service led by the Pope. He did not sound very well.

There was much more walking ahead and my body was beginning to suggest lunch. Castel Sant' Angelo and the nearby bridges make a wonderful sight though the indeterminate grey-blue-green of the Tiber does not invite a close examination. The day was at its height, my coat now on my arm as we enjoyed sunshine not apparently shared by those at home. A few quiet Irish rugby fans passed the time before heading to Stadio Flaminio. They will have had their hearts in their mouths before returning to airports or hotels. Their 11-0 record in head-to heads nearly became 11-1 in a tight 11-13 last gasp victory. Crossing the Tiber at Ponte Cavour we hoped that Museo del' Ara Pacis (under construction on our last visit) would have a cafe or restaurant but it did not. We found ourselves instead at a rather undertstated tourist restaurant on Via Tomacelli where we almost certainly ate on that last visit. The food was good but the views of the Augustan Mausoleum remain clutterd by the detritus of a protracted refurbishment. The approach to a perfectly lit Spanish Steps from that direction was quite a sight. We boarded an exceptionally busy Line A train for Arco di Travertino in the hope that there would indeed be a Travertine Arch in the vicinity. In the event we emerged into a slightly nicer Italian version of Elephant & Castle and a similar number of important historic monuments. Choosing Barberini as a station near our hotel we travelled back on Line A clinging to the slippery lateral seats with only buttock friction, and in my case, wishing that I could not see my reflection. It remained only to drag my fat body uphill to the Marriott and be shocked that I had up to 103 photographs to process. I hope you all enjoy my favourite 'Amatore'