The Three Crowns, Brinkworth

The Three Crowns at Brinkworth near Swindon is worth a drive but visit an ATM or check your credit card limit first. First impressions were mixed. There are some quirks of restaurants I do not like. The Three Crowns does not do starters. In explaining this they intimated that a main course and dessert would challenge most people. Later they commented on our cleared plates although the portions had been good but not huge. There are no menus as everything is written on blackboards. One such, with 'lighter' dishes (and lighter prices) is hidden away and requires customers' attention to be drawn to it. Vegetarians are served by two dishes amongst an almost bewildering array of meat which extends from steak and chicken to ostrich, wild boar and, believe it or not, crocodile. I thought we might be on a slippery slope when neither Greg's first choice of veal nor his second choice of boar was available. His ostrich came with a rich sauce and tasted better than it smelt; served pink, its bloodiness lent an almost fishy and not very appetising smell. However, he enjoyed it. My Thai style chicken pie - one does not readily associate Thailand with puff pastry - was actually very good as was my aunt's chicken stroganoff. The accompanying dish of 5 or 6 vegetables seemed at first inappropriate to any of the main courses but in fact suited all well. All ingredients were of evident quality and the vegetables were properly cooked. The dauphinoise was particularly good.

If the main courses were expensive, then the dessert menu (an actual menu) was positively scary. The fare though somewhat justified the prices. My aunt's trifle pleased her and my duo of brulee was verging on the sublime. Both dishes were beautifully presented and my accompaniment of home made raspberry ice cream was first class. Greg's cheeseboard was generous in quantity and choice with delicious cheese and plenty of biscuits.

In a highly competitive market and in an area not lacking in eating choices, The Three Crowns will need to consider where it goes with its prices. For the time being the excellent food and spacious accommodation make a visit worthwhile.

7.5 out of 10 for excellent food at challenging prices.