I got up early to watch our cruise in the Nord Fjord. It is a much gentler place than the Sognefjord with greener and more sloping sides. Our arrival in Olden was sedate and involved manoeuvring around Ibero’s Grand Mistral which would be tendering. Olden is pretty but small and was under the predictable layer of mountain hugging cloud. We had a leisurely breakfast and went ashore but soon after that it started raining heavily which did not encourage exploration. We went to the Oceana’s internet cafe as much for power as connection. We had been warned that there would probably be little or none in the fjords. That provided another excuse for the absence of the already elusive internet manager. The condition of the ship and overall level of service are not what we expect – I had been warned – and I doubt we would use this lower end of the market again. It is not at all a bad thing to have limited access to the internet and I am enjoying some sort of detox because I spend too much time online at home. Having said that, I am going to have a massive Flickr backlog and that is also due, in part, to the need to browse meticulously to research my notes.
With Jack Reacher safely in Wisconsin, I have moved on to the highly skilled Michael Dobbs’ ‘The Reluctant Hero’. It is, to use a cliché, a page turner. That kept me occupied until we could go out again. It was a very pleasant walk to the few shops of Olden but it did start raining again. The air was palpably clearer than any we are used to and a small part of ones soul was drawn towards the tranquillity of the area. I think though that its attractions would soon pall for the mildly hyperactive. We went back to the ship at lunchtime and secured a rare place in Cafe Jardin. I think the Marco Pierre White connection is, strictly speaking, for dinner only (evening meal, David) and he probably should be careful what he puts his name to as it is there all day for people to see. I immediately homed in on a salad of chick peas, feta and medhool dates which visibly contained no dates. Normally a man of great patience and legendary tolerance, I hate incorrect menu descriptions (and misused culinary terms). I gently drew attention to the date deficiency and the remedial action was amusing to behold. The maitre d’ had laughably suggested that they might be ‘very finely chopped’. My retort was to request an electron microscope; ‘finely chopped’....?; they were invisible because they weren’t there! We chose very different main dishes. Greg’s Coq au Vin; we always have high expectations of Coq. My cheese and pickle baguette was another matter with the pickle so little in evidence it might have been vapour. Perhaps they did not wish to offend the sophisticated palate; perhaps they had not noticed that there are none beyond our cabin. The patisserie chef has a lot to learn and the first thing is to much reduce his/her use of gelatine.
It is regrettable not to say inexplicable that ship security is now, cosmetically at least, similar to that at airports. The problem is that ship security staff (not just on Oceana) make airport security staff look like Mastermind candidates. They have no real idea what they are looking for or why and I am not surprised. Boarding a ship is not at all like boarding an aeroplane. The potential outcomes of so-called security lapses are entirely different. We returned to the internet cafe for the desk space and I got my photographs and blog draft up to date. Indian food in the buffet was reasonably good. The evening show ‘Simply The Best’ was very energetic but requires more practice and, as we reached the open sea on an amazingly beautiful evening, the internet was back on.
An Image For The Moment
An Image For The Moment - Kjosfossen - dedicated to Matt, a friend
Wednesday, 15 June 2011
Tuesday, 14 June 2011
Reise til Norge - Day 4 - Flåm and Voss
I awoke to a sixth form geography lesson, a geology module on a field-trip I never did. We cruised Sognefjord and it was mostly grey overhead but it was still worth seeing. There were waterfalls of course and isolated huts reached only, one presumes, by water. There were, however, habitations higher up reached probably by some sort of road or track and, again close to the shore, some small towns. When we walked on the open deck it did all bring a smile to my face. It rained heavily as we arrived in Flåm but it was perhaps some sort of summer morning ritual as sun appeared soon afterwards and fell across the head of the fjord. Today’s tour was called ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ and that, I think, is what it gave us. Everything was very well organised and there was some bright weather until mid-afternoon when it rained relentlessly. This is not surprising given Norway’s west coast rainfall figures. The scenery is spectacular but can look very tedious in poor weather. Our stop on the Flåm Railway at Kjosfossen was, however, overwhelming and simply made me cry. It is the most magnificent waterfall and the sun shone behind it; breathtaking is not an adequate word. A train journey (we made two; Flåm – Myrdal and Myrdal – Voss) is good for sightseeing but not necessarily ideal for photography. There were few opening windows and plenty of reflections. The late snow suggested that some is year-round. Voss is, apparently, famous for skiing and extreme sports. Being an exponent of neither, I did not know that. It was quiet today but had enough delights for me on a decent length stay. Lunch in Park Hotel was really quite good. Our tour buses were Swedish and it was unclear to me whether they had been brought in to augment limited local resources. We also saw tour buses from Latvia, Estonia and Ukraine. We stopped at another extraordinary waterfall, Tvindefossen. I was shocked to learn how recent the good part of the road network is especially that in tunnel. Much dates from only the 1980s and 90s. It was a tiring day and a fortuitously structured programme allows us to wind down for the rest of the holiday with an independent port day in Olden, a short tour in Bergen and a sea day.
Monday, 13 June 2011
Reise til Norge - Day 3 - Stavanger
It was a beautiful morning as we arrived at Stavanger but, unfortunately, it did not last anything like as long as in the forecast delivered by the deputy Captain. Stavanger is about the sea and there is plenty of marine interest on the approaches and in the surrounding areas including what I took to be an oil rig under construction. I later decided it was lying across a barge and wished I knew more. Certainly the industry support vessels are in evidence. There are ships galore for the relevant groups on Flickr but my eye was caught by what was on a ship in the neck of the harbour. The motor yacht ‘Ice’ with Cayman Islands registry had a New Zealand registered (ZK-HLH) Eurocopter EC135 on board. She is a charter yacht so I don’t know that it was anyone well known visiting – as the truly wealthy are often anonymous – but I can be fairly sure that they have more money than I do. At this point I should be able to insert a picture of the helicopter (which I have posted on FB) but that is just one function of Blogger which has inexplicably degraded. When I first noticed toolbar accessible functions locking off, I Googled (ironically enough) and found that others have the same problem(s), so I don’t feel quite so aggrieved. I can only assume it is to do with the combination of Blogger and one or more of IE9, AOL or Windows. It all means that I am quite likely after this vacation to have to take a short break and then, once again, find a new home for my blog. I might even have to start my own website, a prospect which quite frightens me and about which I understand less than 1% of what I probably should.
I felt that Norway’s fourth largest town was waking a little slowly and discovered that 10am is a common opening time. However, it was also a public holiday and many places did not open at all. Cruise schedules cannot easily avoid the many different holidays around the world but this has happened before and I think there should be more onus on the cruise company to let you know, certainly on arrival, given the extent to which they sell the virtues of a destination. We had determined that we could stay within a very walkable radius of our mooring. I did not need a scenic tour as I figure our three days of fjord cruising will cover that. The helicopter took up some of my time in the port area as they were moving it and looked as though they might be preparing it for flight although that did not materialise.
It was still well before 10am but a bank of grey cloud was moving steadily in and that was an end to the sunshine and a change of lighting for our photography. There is a pleasant lake park, Breiavatnet, with a fountain and we circumnavigated this to the station. I can only wonder what Stavanger station might once have looked like because, today, it is a bit like Birmingham New Street or Euston albeit on a much smaller scale. Most of the track away from the concourse end is hidden gloomily beneath the expanse of a concrete roof. There appear to be frequent trains though the 1033 to Oslo did not seem to have attracted a huge crowd – perhaps people fly? There are sculptures everywhere but not all are especially photogenic and some have been vandalised. It would appear that social evils are here as everywhere as there is also a noticeable litter problem. The Old Town, Gamle Stavanger, seems to me a little fraudulent. The original houses might well be ‘old’ but they are sensibly protected from the region’s winter by double glazing. I am not sure that they do Grade II listed buildings in Old Stavanger. The depth of the harbour waters must be impressive as Oceana was moored at town centre quayside.
We sought the opportunity to use free internet first at Burger King then Stavanger Museum. At the burger joint where otherwise familiar burgers were TWICE the price of England we were politely told that ‘free’ internet was only for those who had purchased meals. At up to ten pounds for a sandwich I think I would also want a campaign medal. Meanwhile, the canny crew members were arrayed on public benches outside with their laptops open. It is a poignant sight because the seamen, many Filipino, are away for long periods with few precious opportunities to contact friends and family. The museum was a friendly place and, unusually, had a secure network. I started my Flickr uploads but was not comfortable without doing the meticulous research (for my notes) and had a beastly headache which curtailed my efforts and made me feel faint as we rejoined the ship.
Perhaps because of the holiday restaurant closures, the ship was not as quiet as it might have been on a port day and lunch was a bit crowded. At this point, I would record that there may well be as many sticks, crutches and wheels on board as legs but then my cousin would find me even more (potentially) rude and intolerant so I shall put this in hidden text [I wonder if it will work]....No? Oh dear. Whatever one’s level of social benevolence, this is one of the older cruises we have been on and has a clientele who perhaps do not mind the relentlessly British food. It remains adequate and often tasty but poorly presented and appears in poorly crafted menus – meaning, for example, you wonder exactly how the vegetables on offer would actually go with the main courses.
Afternoon rain was limited; afternoon sleep fought off my near-migrainous headache and the cloud retreated to medium levels. Small Stavanger is going to make Flåm and Olden look tiny but the stop was a good one and I am anxious to get the time to process and upload my photographs to show that. As we sailed away some rain fell, enough to drive us from the deck. From the restaurant a solitary wind turbine and, later, a strange fluorescent marker (a wreck perhaps) caught the eye. Dinner was fine and I tried the ‘Regional Dish’ which was tasty. We went to the show again and it really was very good. ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’, was Motown themed and cleverly put together in ‘Mamma Mia’ style. The energy of the dancers who perform most nights of the cruise and rehearse is unbelievable. The show was highly escapist and is absorbing enough to blot out any worries from outside. Now as we transit misty seas, I am looking forward to two train rides tomorrow.
I felt that Norway’s fourth largest town was waking a little slowly and discovered that 10am is a common opening time. However, it was also a public holiday and many places did not open at all. Cruise schedules cannot easily avoid the many different holidays around the world but this has happened before and I think there should be more onus on the cruise company to let you know, certainly on arrival, given the extent to which they sell the virtues of a destination. We had determined that we could stay within a very walkable radius of our mooring. I did not need a scenic tour as I figure our three days of fjord cruising will cover that. The helicopter took up some of my time in the port area as they were moving it and looked as though they might be preparing it for flight although that did not materialise.
It was still well before 10am but a bank of grey cloud was moving steadily in and that was an end to the sunshine and a change of lighting for our photography. There is a pleasant lake park, Breiavatnet, with a fountain and we circumnavigated this to the station. I can only wonder what Stavanger station might once have looked like because, today, it is a bit like Birmingham New Street or Euston albeit on a much smaller scale. Most of the track away from the concourse end is hidden gloomily beneath the expanse of a concrete roof. There appear to be frequent trains though the 1033 to Oslo did not seem to have attracted a huge crowd – perhaps people fly? There are sculptures everywhere but not all are especially photogenic and some have been vandalised. It would appear that social evils are here as everywhere as there is also a noticeable litter problem. The Old Town, Gamle Stavanger, seems to me a little fraudulent. The original houses might well be ‘old’ but they are sensibly protected from the region’s winter by double glazing. I am not sure that they do Grade II listed buildings in Old Stavanger. The depth of the harbour waters must be impressive as Oceana was moored at town centre quayside.
We sought the opportunity to use free internet first at Burger King then Stavanger Museum. At the burger joint where otherwise familiar burgers were TWICE the price of England we were politely told that ‘free’ internet was only for those who had purchased meals. At up to ten pounds for a sandwich I think I would also want a campaign medal. Meanwhile, the canny crew members were arrayed on public benches outside with their laptops open. It is a poignant sight because the seamen, many Filipino, are away for long periods with few precious opportunities to contact friends and family. The museum was a friendly place and, unusually, had a secure network. I started my Flickr uploads but was not comfortable without doing the meticulous research (for my notes) and had a beastly headache which curtailed my efforts and made me feel faint as we rejoined the ship.
Perhaps because of the holiday restaurant closures, the ship was not as quiet as it might have been on a port day and lunch was a bit crowded. At this point, I would record that there may well be as many sticks, crutches and wheels on board as legs but then my cousin would find me even more (potentially) rude and intolerant so I shall put this in hidden text [I wonder if it will work]....No? Oh dear. Whatever one’s level of social benevolence, this is one of the older cruises we have been on and has a clientele who perhaps do not mind the relentlessly British food. It remains adequate and often tasty but poorly presented and appears in poorly crafted menus – meaning, for example, you wonder exactly how the vegetables on offer would actually go with the main courses.
Afternoon rain was limited; afternoon sleep fought off my near-migrainous headache and the cloud retreated to medium levels. Small Stavanger is going to make Flåm and Olden look tiny but the stop was a good one and I am anxious to get the time to process and upload my photographs to show that. As we sailed away some rain fell, enough to drive us from the deck. From the restaurant a solitary wind turbine and, later, a strange fluorescent marker (a wreck perhaps) caught the eye. Dinner was fine and I tried the ‘Regional Dish’ which was tasty. We went to the show again and it really was very good. ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’, was Motown themed and cleverly put together in ‘Mamma Mia’ style. The energy of the dancers who perform most nights of the cruise and rehearse is unbelievable. The show was highly escapist and is absorbing enough to blot out any worries from outside. Now as we transit misty seas, I am looking forward to two train rides tomorrow.
Sunday, 12 June 2011
Reise til Norge - Day 2 - At Sea
It was a bright if cool day on the North Sea and we learned that we had left behind much wetter weather in the UK. We also heard that they have not had this weather in the North Sea for two weeks. We were 30 miles east of the UK coast and our passage took us close to oil fields which were fascinating. To watch the sea and the horizon is a bit like looking at the radar without the strips; where is everybody going from and to? Each journey important to its crew, their families and employers; from one place to another, criss-crossing the oceans.
Lunch was dull, a steak and kidney pie having little flavour and only the mashed potato being well done. I slept a lot, an important restorative feature of sea days. In my more vigorous moments I lived vicariously the life of Jack Reacher, someone I could never actually be. Tonight was black tie and most people made the effort but the food was a bit humdrum again. My salmon was acceptable; my sea bass was a sardine impersonator at least as far as size. I was planning to record that service is cohesive but a waiter at our station seemed to get stranded on his own and things broke down a bit. We felt a bit foolish later when we went to the wrong theatre and saw ‘Gotta Sing, Gotta Dance’ instead of the comedian. However, it was a well choreographed, well performed, high energy show and it is remarkable that there are six shows during the cruise. We emerged from the theatre to be reminded just how far north we are already with the sun still well established in the sky. I am looking forward to arriving in Stavanger but was disturbed that port details including excursion meeting times etc. had not been promulgated by what, frankly, would be bedtime for many.
Lunch was dull, a steak and kidney pie having little flavour and only the mashed potato being well done. I slept a lot, an important restorative feature of sea days. In my more vigorous moments I lived vicariously the life of Jack Reacher, someone I could never actually be. Tonight was black tie and most people made the effort but the food was a bit humdrum again. My salmon was acceptable; my sea bass was a sardine impersonator at least as far as size. I was planning to record that service is cohesive but a waiter at our station seemed to get stranded on his own and things broke down a bit. We felt a bit foolish later when we went to the wrong theatre and saw ‘Gotta Sing, Gotta Dance’ instead of the comedian. However, it was a well choreographed, well performed, high energy show and it is remarkable that there are six shows during the cruise. We emerged from the theatre to be reminded just how far north we are already with the sun still well established in the sky. I am looking forward to arriving in Stavanger but was disturbed that port details including excursion meeting times etc. had not been promulgated by what, frankly, would be bedtime for many.
Reise til Norge - Day 1 - Southampton
With uncertainty about the well being of our car still in my mind, we were herded by a G4S retiree/reject into a toiletless shed for the longest cruise check-in queue I have yet experienced. Our wait of over 30 minutes gave us time to confirm that there was no-one on board we would actually want to talk to; it's a shame we'll have to dine with them. The large representation of the hard of moving should find the fjords challenging. On board, the ship does look nice and our cabin - we forgot we had ordered a mini-suite - is excellent and spacious. As we thrust away from the quay, I began to doubt that our location above the propellers was ideal. Still, we'll never be far away from the next screw. The first impression of the food was that it is visually poor but tasty. The internet manager was not available as advertised and no-one seemed to be able to contact him. Dinner was fairly good except for portion sizes and having to sit with six other people. Dinner was served efficiently by a largely sub-continental waiting staff. The waiters were generous with people’s requests for additional food. We bought our internet packages later.
Friday, 10 June 2011
Waterside Brasserie
Perhaps wishing to adjust early to the anticipated luxury of our cruise, we decided to at eat the Waterside Brasserie, Lee on Solent. On the shore but slightly hidden, it is not as accessible as it might be. You need to know it is there. It does not have its own parking and the nearest ramp is completely unsuitable for wheelchairs. These can be safely propelled only from another access point some way away. The menu was enticing and tolerably priced. I felt virtuous to order a dressed crab salad and it was not bad but it is fair to say that the best feature of the dish was the, probably local, new potatoes. I have little experience of crab in the singular but the dark meat mix unintentionally reminded me of builders sand albeit more in appearance than texture. It was at least cheaper than my partner's salmon with fresh vegetables and that surprised me. A chocolate and chilli creme brulee was pretty spectacular with the infused heat subtle but distinct. Across the table, bread and butter pudding disappeared quickly even in a slightly over-sweet creme anglaise.
For above average food and unsurpassed Solent views, Waterside is worth a visit especially perhaps on one of these long evenings.
Food 7.5 out of 10; service 7 out of 10.
For above average food and unsurpassed Solent views, Waterside is worth a visit especially perhaps on one of these long evenings.
Food 7.5 out of 10; service 7 out of 10.
Baiting
To separate Rant from Restaurant, I am writing more than one blog entry today. This is the rant, a short one; your beans on toast won't get cold reading it.
Baiting is a common feature of supermarkets today. Unfortunately, even the Consumer Association in a recent review of supermarket tricks conceded that is difficult to prove as an intentional strategy. Nevertheless, there is no doubt in my mind. Baiting, in case you don't know, is where a retailer publicises a special offer which, in fact, is not available and anticipates that you will instead purchase a strategically located and, naturally, more expensive alternative - another size or another brand. When challenged on availability of the alleged offer they will give you all sorts of disingenuous waffle about stocking difficulties, awaiting delivery or even completely wrong information about the offer dates.
Today it was Princes Corned Beef in Tesco. Theoretically 49p off and £1.49 for a small tin. Amazingly it was out of stock but adjacent to the resulting space was Princes LEAN Corned Beef in the same size for only £2.49. Funny that. You will find countless examples of this across all the leading supermarkets.
I think we can agree that they are all master baiters.
Baiting is a common feature of supermarkets today. Unfortunately, even the Consumer Association in a recent review of supermarket tricks conceded that is difficult to prove as an intentional strategy. Nevertheless, there is no doubt in my mind. Baiting, in case you don't know, is where a retailer publicises a special offer which, in fact, is not available and anticipates that you will instead purchase a strategically located and, naturally, more expensive alternative - another size or another brand. When challenged on availability of the alleged offer they will give you all sorts of disingenuous waffle about stocking difficulties, awaiting delivery or even completely wrong information about the offer dates.
Today it was Princes Corned Beef in Tesco. Theoretically 49p off and £1.49 for a small tin. Amazingly it was out of stock but adjacent to the resulting space was Princes LEAN Corned Beef in the same size for only £2.49. Funny that. You will find countless examples of this across all the leading supermarkets.
I think we can agree that they are all master baiters.
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